Zai Xian...

Our Xian Hostel. The nicest and helpful people ever. Met some interesting travelers too.

The street outside out hostel with lots of artisan carts.

And calligraphy materials.

The main gate of Xian's great mosque. No nails used. Not very Arab looking.

I seem some Arab script! Maybe this isn't just another Taoist temple.

This is a mosque?

The date on this inscription says this was made in 1365.

The main prayer room. Amazing that still mosque has been in use for centuries.

Mao watches! With severe chopping second hand! Get to work!

Artist man himself displaying his woodcut wares.

Ugh, just laying low in our new hostel in Xian, home of the start of the silk road and home of the terra cota warriors. The weather is way hotter here and my bowels have decided to rebel from a diet of spicy oil noodles and lamb kabobs. Oi. And the diet, heat, and sweating has reeked havoc on my face which is now sprouting a pimple that looks to be something of a third nostril on my nose. Oh, and now that we are not in Beijing where people were quite flattering of my broken Chinese, Xian-ers have made no bones about my crappy Chinese. Conversations have proceeded as thus:

- Oh, you speak Chinese!
-Yes!
- Wow, it really sucks. Your friend's Chinese is so much better. What's up with that?
- Oh, I was born in the US. My parent are Chinese. He grew up in China.
- Oh ok.

Then communication commences through my better-Chinese-speaking friend. I'm able to get around, but can understand about 60% of what people are saying. And then throw in some funky accents and it goes down to like 10%. But all told, Xian is really a nice change from Beijing. Not nearly so crowded and full of architecture that retains some character and continuity within the city.

We went to see the Great Mosque in the Muslim district. It was quite peaceful and is still actually used today since is it was built in steps centuries ago. The funny think is that al the buildings are very Chinese. If not for random Arabic script on signs, the ribbed roof tops and pagoda disguised minaret makes the place look like a Chinese Taoist temple park. Weird! But the food too in the shops were fantastic. And in the souvenir tents that swarmed the walkways outside the mosque we came across some beautiful woodcuts. The artist was there too and started to show us his exhibit books and articles that had been published about him. He was thoroughly proud of his work and excited to show it to us. It really was beautiful stuff and we ended up with our first mass souvenir purchases. I think I may need to upgrade the size of my apartment to accommodate my new woodblock scrolls. Pictures of the Chinese countryside and workers. We did a bit of bargaining but really the prices are amazing anyway with the exchange rate. Wee, i'll post pics as soon as I can.

Time to nurse my aching feet and roiling bowels!